A Waterman's Journey + Big Tuesday
Photo Essay, Travel Photography, Leica Cameras, Seascape Photography, Surf Photography, Ocean Photography, Sydney, Surfing
The winter of 2024 delivered a day for the ages—Big Tuesday. At a remote Sydney surf spot that awakens only when the ocean unleashes its full power, towering green mountains of water marched in, testing the skill and courage of those who answered the call. Many paddled out, but only a select few thrived in the chaos, harnessing the raw energy of the sea with fearless precision. Watching these bodyboarders navigate such extreme conditions, I was reminded of my own lifelong connection to the ocean—a journey spanning more than four decades.
It all began as a junior lifesaver, riding blow-up surfoplanes, surfskis and then surfboards in progressively bigger surf. That passion carried me to national championships, multiple South African Lifesaving titles, and professional lifeguarding, where I honed my ability to read the water and respect its power. From lifesaving to high-performance longboards and stand-up paddleboards, I lived the life of a waterman, immersed in the rhythm of the waves—until my health changed everything.
Years passed without the ocean beneath me. Then last year, I took a serious shot at standing up on a surfboard again. It was humbling. I didn’t quite have the ability anymore, and my efforts left me with a mangled toe. But I had gotten to my knees. And that got me thinking—about a childhood friend who had only ever kneeboarded. Inspired, I spent January rebuilding my swimming fitness before giving kneeboarding a try.
This week, I paddled out at Bondi, assisted by a skilled French longboarder. The water was warm, the sky clear, and the sea smooth. After years away, I found myself beyond the breakers, panting, exhausted—but elated. Sitting on my decades-old surfboard, I breathed in the pure magic of being back in the ocean.
My board wasn’t quite right for the task, making paddling and wave-catching a challenge. But I caught a few waves, and the rush was undeniable. So, I’ve gone back to the drawing board—this time, researching bodyboarding. The sport has evolved into a high-performance art, and I’m eager to dive in.
Next week, I’ll have my new board or a borrowed board for now, ready to see where the journey takes me. Because as long as I’m in the water, I’m happy.
:: Rand
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All images are copyright Rand Leeb-du Toit, 2025