Bondi Beach: Surf + Sand
Surf Photography, Photographic Essay, Leica, Seascape, Ocean Photography
I’m on a very powerful mix of medications that ensure my body doesn't reject my transplanted heart. While they keep me alive, these drugs are not without significant side effects. One of those is to make me as much as 65 times more longer to develop skin cancer from exposure to the sun. For this reason I tend to avoid spending time out in direct sunlight during the peak hours of the day and, when I do, I cover up my entire body as much as possible with hat, gloves, neck covers, jackets and long trousers, together with a healthy dollop of sun screen on my face and ears. This all helps, but late 2023 I had to have a lentigo maligna removed next to my right eye and plastic surgery for the affected area. Such a maligna is potentially a precursor to skin cancer and thankfully it was removed early enough. I go for skin checkups every 6 months and highly recommend you have one at least annually.
That is a preamble as to how rare it is for me to be able to share with you beach photos taken in the middle of the day. I follow the swell predictions very closely and knew that this particular day was due for 4-5 foot surf. I chose to head down to Bondi Beach to hunt for surf shots at the optimal time based on the tide, which can significantly effect wave quality. I like to shoot at Bondi, not so much because of the surf quality, but more because it is a place of infinite interest. There is always something going on at Bondi and the place has a palpable energy. I don't surf these days, but I still love engaging in surf photography. My many decades of surfing give me the superpower of being able to read the surf and the surfers and anticipate ideal waves and moves the surfers will make. I had fun on this outing and I'm looking forward to bigger surf as we move inexorably into the winter months.
:: Rand
If you'd like to delve deeper into my photography visit my website and Instagram (@randleebdutoit). Please reach out if you'd like to suggest a collaboration.
All images are copyright Rand Leeb-du Toit, 2024
Wow! Man, you are extraordinarily talented. These shots made me stop and look in spite of a sea of digital noise distracting me. Hats off. (But...erm...keep your sun-hat on. Need many more years of this work.) ;)
Great photos, Rand. I notice a caption under your leading one of the post. I'm a newcomer to Substack and would like to use captions when sharing photos, but I can't see how one does that. Could you explain? Thanks in advance.